Building an Ikea Lack enclosure for Creality Ender 3

I started with printing the parts from Threedee_Bus_Driver’s Thingiverse submission with Hobbyking’s red PLA.

Most of the finished parts.

I had already assembled one of the lack tables, so this time I just put correct corner pieces to right corners when attaching the legs to the table.

After that it was time to test fit the tables top of each other and mark the corners so I know where to screw the leg holders.

I drilled the holes bigger with a 3.5mm drill bit so the screws would fit better and they wouldn’t break the plastic. After this I just screwed the four corner pieces in place and did another test fitting to see if everything lines up. At this stage I also measured how large plexi glass windows I would need and ordered them.

Next I flipped the top table and installed Ikea Ledberg 24V led lights. I soldered wires between the leds, and ended up with a little too long wires but that doesn’t bother me personally. I just need to attach those wires to the table so it looks clean.

I used the original spool holder from the Ender 3, attached it with two screws to the printed spool holder base. Base has a lock that is attached with two screws to the table.

First test with the printer at the right place. I noticed that the Z rod hits the bottom of the upper table, so I need to print more parts that go between the leg and table.

Drilled a 10mm hole for the filament tube to go through the lack table. There is a short piece of bowden tube guiding the filament trough the printed part.

Since the Z rod hit the bottom of the the 2nd table, I needed to print more pieces to raise the table by 2cm.

I had to alter the original door parts to fit my round magnets, which I already had laying around. I also flipped the door side part so the magnet is between plexi glass and the plastic. My magnets are N52, so I felt they were too strong to have them sit side by side. I also used double sided tape to mount these to plexi glass and table.

It took a few days for the plexi glass to arrive, I ordered them cut to size from So it was just screwing the correct pieces to correct legs. I might have used short screws, but it seems to be fine.

Time to install the handle for the removable plexi glass, which is on the left side of the enclosure. Double sided tape, like mentioned before.

The front door panel was a bit too tall, my mistake on measuring it. So I have to cut very small pieces from the two corners to make it fit to the swings, then attach the handle and then it’s done.

Final result without the front door.

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20 Responses to Building an Ikea Lack enclosure for Creality Ender 3


    What r the dimensions on the plexi glass?

    • Ilkka says:

      The three sides were 445×480mm and door was 425×476mm. They were a bit too big, so I have cut off small pieces from the corners so they fit better.

  2. Craig says:

    Do you have the model number of the table I think I may order one too small

  3. Claudio Pérez says:

    Hi, excellent work. Only an idea You should take the power source out of the box. It is not healthy to expose it to a high temperature. While a high temperature is better for printing, it is not the best for electronic parts, especially the source that needs to be cooled. Good luck friend.

    • Ilkka says:

      I had a thermometer on the ceiling of enclosure, and got max temperature of 33C while printing long 6+ hour prints with headbed set to 60C. So I’m not afraid that the electronics go bad because of high temperatures, and the enclosure is not airtight either. There are some small gaps around the plexi glass.

  4. tetra84 says:

    cool, I think i’ll try this enclosure design. does the printer shake any more sitting on the IKEA tables? or are they pretty solid?

    • Ilkka says:

      There isn’t that much of a shake going on, but I have those cotton pads that you put under furniture on the printer’s feet so the vibrations from the printer don’t go to the table.

  5. CJNYC3 says:

    Did your hinge pieces fit well together? Or did you do some sanding to get them to fit well? I’m currently working on getting this enclosure built for my ender 3 and i’m running into this issue.

    • Ilkka says:

      They didn’t at first. I had to drill the hole bigger and then I cut some of the material away with a knife so it fit around the pole. Sanding works too, but I found that knife was faster.

  6. montag says:

    is the printer completely enclosed? I read somewhere else that the lack table does not have the right dimensions for the ender.

  7. bleughbleugh says:

    can the bed move fully the maximum 220mm front to back when inside the lack enclosure? if the lack is 550mm x 550mm it probably can?

  8. Cole says:

    Just checking whether you’ve run into any problems having used PLA as opposed to PETG. Most enclosures seem to recommend PET but if you’re only topping out at 33C inside / around the printer, I wouldn’t imagine it would be a problem.

  9. Charles says:

    Where can I get the file for the 2cm raise. I have the same issue.

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